A Circle of Dolphins

Some people might find getting up before dawn a sacrifice, but to a surfer it’s the best way to get the waves all to yourself.

My buddy Brian and a couple of other diehards were already there when I got to California’s Monterey Bay that August morning. I paddled out to an isolated spot in the water and climbed on my board to wait for a wave.

As much as I loved the adrenaline rush I got while surfing, quiet moments like this were really what drew me to the beach.

A squeak and click came from behind me. I turned to see a pod of dolphins playing. Something brushed my leg—a school of bluefin tuna underneath my board.

Morning fog danced on the horizon. Thank you, God, for sharing with me the beauty of your world. I closed my eyes and breathed it all in. I couldn’t imagine a life without the ocean, without this feeling of perfect oneness with the glory of God’s creation.

I snapped out of my daydream. Stay alert, Todd, I reminded myself. The ocean was filled with wonder and beauty, but it was also somewhat dangerous.

I touched my right ankle to make sure my leash was on. The seven-foot bungee cord kept me attached to my board if I wiped out. But I still had to steer clear of sandbars, reefs, other surfers—not to mention stingrays, jellyfish, seals and—especially at this time of year—sharks.

As an experienced surfer, I knew the dangers of the water better than most. But danger was just a part of this life. This beautiful life.

There was rumbling behind me. Wave’s coming. I turned the nose of my board toward the beach, lay down on top of it and paddled with all my might.

The wave lifted my board, and I paddled even harder, leaning forward. Raising my chest so that my weight was just above the center of the board I stood up and let the ocean carry me.

Once I was on top of a wave, balancing on a liquid mountain, everything else faded away. There was nothing like the exhilaration of riding one into shore. I was alive!

As soon as I got to shore I turned back around. Same routine: check my leash, paddle out, catch a wave. This one was even bigger. I towered over the ocean in my surfer’s stance.

Bam! Something hit me hard and fast as a semitruck. I launched off my board and into the air. I splashed down into the water. I came up dazed, but I knew exactly what was happening. Shark!

My ankle leash still attached me to my board. I climbed back on it and paddled for my life toward shore.